QUESTION: What resources are out there about the physiological aspects of training to ride big waves?

Beth,
I am doing a project for a high school physiology class. We chose from a list of factors and will tell how each factor effects the pulmonary, cardiovascular, nueromuscular, and endocrine systems. I chose the factor of being underwater. To make my project more interesting, I wanted to relate it to the underwater training that surfers do for big wave training.

Finding this information has proven to be difficult. Do you know of any books, articles, websites, etc. that I could use in my research?

Thanks,
Jennie

ANSWER:

[Beth]
Hey, Jennie,
There is some brief information on big wave surfer Garrett McNamara's web site. Check out the this page, where Garrett states, "The training is a combination of running the beach at Waimea, Biking up Pupukea hill, weight training, swimming and breathing excersices such as the underwater rock-carry, and cave diving."

I think your question might be better answered by our editor, since he has done some personal research on the subject. Jennie, if our editor doesn't get to all of your physiology questions, give me a shout.

Thanks,
Beth

[Editor]
Jennie,

We have checked several resources, including writers for other established surfing publications, and we have not found any books that focus on big wave training- nor on the physiological aspects of this activity.

There are articles about big wave surfing in some past issues of Surfing Magazine and Surfer Magazine, but I haven't seen any that go into detail about the related physiological effects. However, there is a book that I recommend, which goes into depth about the body’s many changes during breath holding, which is key to surfing big waves.

The book entitled "FREEDIVE!" by Terry Maas and David Sipperly, talks about breath holding as it pertains to freediving, not surfing. But the breath-holding exercises and the related physiological aspects are very relevant to training for big wave surfing. Beth has told me that, "One can really train their lungs just like any other muscle in the body!" Plus I know several big wave surfers who utilize some form of breath holding exercises to increase their ability to stay underwater longer. So I think the sections of "FREEDIVE!" that focus on the physiology of breath holding would provide a lot of scientific data to help your research.

Note to readers: As is cautioned in this book, breath-holding exercises can be very dangerous- and even cause death. Do NOT practice such exercises without close supervision OR if you suspect that you have any medical conditions, which could be exacerbated by holding your breath. Extreme anaerobic stress is known to cause brain tissue damage and/or heart damage or failure. Also, the ability to hold one's breath for long periods of time is only one skill of many physical and mental requirements to surf big waves- none, or even all of which CANNOT ensure survival.

Aloha,
The SurfPulse Editor
(Posted 11-6-03)

QUESTION: What are some good pre-surf stretches/exercises?

What are some good stretches/exercises to do right before entering the water? I've never been the real limber type, nor much of a stretcher. But at 37 and still full of surf stoke, those fall and winter days at Ocean Beach are getting tougher. I'm always too pumped up to hit the water before stretching enough, is there a regimen you can recommend?

Thank you,
Paul

ANSWER:

Hey Paul,
You betcha! There are definitely several great pre-surfing stretches that can be done and I am going refer you to a book that will show them to you. It is called Surf Flex by Paul Frediani. You can purchase it on-line at Amazon.com or pick it up at some of the local surf shops (if you live in the SF/Bay Area).

Warming up prior to surfing is key, but make sure you are also doing an extensive stretching regimen after you surf. Studies show that you want to warm up first, but you don't need to get super deep into the stretches until afterwards. A good way to get the heart rate going pre-water entry is to run from the car to the water. Then do some stretches. If you know any yoga, now is the time to incorporate your sun salutation. It definitely heats up the body and warms up the spine. Not to mention it opens up some of your muscles.

So, get the book, study some stretches, warm up your body pre surf but then really get down and dirty with the 45 min+ stretching routine once you have chowed down and dried off!

Good luck, and don't worry, we are all getting older and tighter!!!

Hasta, Beth
(Posted 8-5-03)

QUESTION: My foot hurts when I do turns. Why?

Hey Beth,
I am a 33-year-old father of 1, and I have a major foot problem. I surf Nor Cal, and if I've gotten a lot of rides where my foot hurts like hell when I pull a gnarly turn. On the front pad of the foot, right behind the #3 and #4 toes there are some bones that just kill on the underside.

Look, I'm not a pro, I'm just trying to rip. If I don't get some help soon, I'll consider hacking this useless foot off and just hitting OB with one good foot and a stump. Can you please help me?

-Jim in SF

ANSWER:

Jim,
You probably got this toe gig from dropping in on chicks, yeah me, out at Sloat! Did ya know bodybybeth was me?? Kind of funny, eh?

Actually, sounds to me like it could be a few different things. Has this been going on for a long time? Foot problems take forever to heal because we are always placing pressure on them. You could have bruised this area, you could have a bit of calcification growth (bone spur) caused by wear and tear, or it could be some weird tissue growth. I would get myself to a podiatrist and have him/her take a look at it. It is always good to know exactly what you are dealing with so you know how to make things better.

Let me know what is up with that foot of yours next time I see you. And if you do happen to drop in on me again, don't worry, I'll have our big friend pull that foot off for ya!

Hope to see you soon.

Hasta, Beth
(Posted 2-10-02)

QUESTION: What type of diet would enhance my surfing and weight lifting program?

Beth,
People keep writing in about what type of weight training program they should do. That is great and all, but isn't it useless without the proper diet? What type of diet could enhance my surfing and benefit my weight lifting program?

Thank you,
Matt B.

ANSWER:

Hey Matt,
You are totally right, proper food intake is what makes us surf longer, recover quicker, and maintain/build the muscles necessary for surfing. It is difficult to consume a large amount of food right before you go surfing so something like an energy bar, a banana, a small muffin would suffice.

I have a really hard time eating protein before I exercise, but others have no problem. Figure out what works best for you. Carbs are more easily digestible, but we also burn through them more quickly. After a 2-3 hour surf session, the Cliff Bar you ate before surfing is long gone whereas a turkey sandwich may still be lingering (if not haunting). So, a little food and water before you surf and then it is time to fuel.

When you get out of the water, try to control your hunger and not grab the bag of Frito lays at the convenience store. Get yourself a healthy, balanced meal containing some carbs, protein, and a bit o' good fat to help repair those muscles that you just trashed.

As for eating on a daily basis, less (food) more (often) is the way to go. I am a total grazer eating every 2-3 hours. There are many fad diets out there, but I would stick with the good old pyramid of 60% carbs, 15% protein, and 25% fat. Variety is the spice of life so get in tons of fruits and veggies, different meats and dairy products, and a wide range of grains. Try to avoid packaged goods as they are usually "dead" energy.

Wow, big answer for you! The main thing is to eat a bit before and after you work out. Some say to eat only protein before, carbs after or vice/versa. I recommend finding a book that suites you and try a few different ways. Sorry for the ramble. Please let me know if you need something more specific.

Hasta, Beth
(Posted 12-04-02)

QUESTION: Which muscles do I use while surfing?

Beth:
When I surf, what are the muscles that are worked?

Thanks,
Dustin

ANSWER:

Hey Dustin,
I am actually not sure what muscles YOU use when you surf as I have never seen you surf! There are many improper ways of paddling and definitely surfing, but I can tell you what muscles you are SUPPOSED to use when you surf.

While paddling, you tend to use mostly upper body strength and abdominal strength. This includes your upper-, mid-, and lower traps, lats, deltoids, pecs, rhomboids, scapular muscles, and a bunch of little stabilizer muscles in your upper body. Mid and low back muscles are also a part of it all not to mention your biceps, triceps, and forearm muscles (used a lot for duck diving). I am sure I have missed the name of some other muscles but I hope you get the picture. As for the abs, they are all used. Upper, middle, lower, and side-to-side, baby. You gotta have a solid core to paddle hard and stand up strong. The gluts (yeah, your ass muscles) and hamstrings are used somewhat while paddling and most of the lower extremity is used while standing. I, myself, tend to spend 95-98% of my 2-hour session here at Ocean beach paddling so my upper body gets huge whereas my legs tend to shrink in size.

SO... if your next question is how do I train all these muscles, take a look at many of my older responses to questions and you should find about 10 that answer the same thing. But, if you need some more info on top of all this, please don't hesitate to ask.

Hasta, Beth
(Posted 10-15-02)

QUESTION: Neophyte surfer preparation?

Beth:
I finally have time to dedicate to taking up surfing. The hitch is, I'm now 43 years old! Please reassure me that I'm not too granny to start a new sport. My question is this: I plan to attend a surfing school in Santa Cruz sometime in late fall/early winter. Until then, I am power-walking 3 miles/day, with pushups and sit-ups daily as well. I'm adding lap swimming 45 min/day, 3 days/week to the mix. Do you have any other suggestions for strength/endurance training? Also, do height/weight have any bearing on surfing? I am freakishly tall and thin. Thanks. - Mary M.

ANSWER:

Hey Mary,
You mean 43 years too young! If it is in your heart to surf, age is irrelevant. Sounds to me like you are on the right road to getting fit for surfing, especially by swimming 3 times per week. Just make sure you are pushing it hard and getting your arms fatigued so you actually build some strength in those guns. You may want to add some chair dips (for your triceps, back of arms) and pull ups. Makes sure you are doing at least 3 sets of 15- 20 pushups. Oh, and definitely add a bunch of sit-ups at least 3-4 times per week. Core strength is KEY in surfing. Don't be alarmed if you still feel worked when you first get on the board. Believe me, the best thing to get in shape for surfing is surfing itself. The only trouble you may encounter with your height is that you need to bend your knees a bit more to lower your center of gravity. The weight issue, too little, is that you may get a bit colder out there then someone with a bit more meat on their bones.

Good luck Mary and most of all, enjoy the ride! It is never too late to have fun in life.

Hasta, Beth
(Posted 9-14-02)

QUESTION: Weight training program for surfing?

Hello,
I am wondering if you could advise me on a workout routine, or some sort of exercise program, to help me strengthen the correct muscles for surfing. I am a former football player so I have several years of weight room experience, but I would like to know how to tailor a routine around the correct types of exercises. I would appreciate any type of feed back.

Yours truly,
Lee

ANSWER:

Hey Lee,
Still somewhat of a loaded question. I am going to refer you to 2 surf books which have a bunch of weight room suggestions along with some good cardiovascular advice. The first book is called Surf Flex by Paul Frediani. The other is Fit To Surf by Rocky Snyder. Both can be purchased at Amazon.com. They are great books, well written, and lots of pictures of the different exercises. Get 'em soon so you can start now to get strong for Fall!

Hasta, Beth
(Posted 8-11-02)

QUESTION: How do I make an affordable home gym?

Hi Beth!
I want to buy some home exercise equipment to get me in shape for surfing. Should I buy a power tower to do pull-ups, dips, and push-ups… or should I buy a set of dumbbells and a flat bench, so I could do shoulder presses, triceps extensions, upright rows, curls, chest presses, etc? I can only afford one or the other and would greatly appreciate your input.

Also, I weigh 210 lbs. (but very fit), so would it be too strenuous on my joints and smaller muscles to do traditional exercises such as pull-ups and dips? Thanks for your response!

-Jim

ANSWER:

Hey Jim
I would definitely buy the dumbbells and flat bench. You can do push ups on the floor or with your feet up on a step & dips can be done using the flat bench and either putting your feet on the floor or on a chair. Pull-ups are a bit trickier so you may need to get imaginative. Tree branches work- as do random hanging pieces- around the house. Get creative but also be careful and make sure it can handle your weight. Tree branches don't care whether you are a fit 210 or a fat 210, it is all 210 to the branch!

Happy lifting.

Hasta, Beth
(Posted 7-28-02)

QUESTION: Where is a good place for a beginner to ride?

QUESTION: How do I get started surfing?

QUESTION: Any rehydration tips?

QUESTION: Any good surf fitness books?

I actually know of 2 great surf books that I recently picked up. One is called Surf Flex written by Paul Frediani. The other is called Fit To Surf by Rocky Snyder. I found both of these at Amazon.com. I would also recommend hiring a trainer who is a surfer to teach you proper technique and to put you on an actual program you could follow. It may sound expensive but you only need one to two visits with the trainer to get a usable, lifetime program. Happy surfing!

Hasta,
Beth

QUESTION: How can I work toward surfing bigger waves?

Hi Beth,

I would like to be able to comfortably surf overhead to double overhead waves. I have been surfing on and off for a couple years now and sometimes feel hesitant paddling out when it's big and hairy. Do you have any suggestions on improving one's surfing mindset when the waves are large?

Thanks,
Howard

ANSWER:

Hey Howard,

Stoked you are coming to my clinic in March. I have been thinking a bit about your question and have a few things worth considering. Sounds like you live around the SF area and as you know, larger waves around here are crushing compared to mellow point breaks. SO, fitness is a large part of riding bigger waves. IF you are not surfing 3-4 days/week during the winter months, I would suggest joining a gym and lifting and/or starting a swimming program. The more fit you are, the more you're able to deal with the currents, the paddle, and the hellish shore break will seem. You also want to be strong enough to take care of yourself if you do get caught in a rip, if your leash or board breaks all the way outside, or if you get worked on the inside.

Next thing to consider before testing the waters in bigger surf is are you putting yourself or others in danger. Can you hold onto your board most of the time? Can you make most of your drops or pull out of a wave quickly so you don't hit someone paddling out? Things to think of so you and others feel safe.

To get back to your question, for me the best way to get comfortable in bigger surf was to work my way up to it by challenging myself safely. Try to get a buddy who is a better surfer to go out with you and explain what is going on (and to keep an eye on you). I can't emphasize enough that you need to have a positive experience when going beyond your comfort level so that you don't scare the crap out of yourself. The next time you go and surf smaller waves, you will feel like a hero and be totally stoked that you are in mellower waves. Hopefully what will happen is that you will slowly work up to bigger waves rather than jumping in way over your head.

I look forward to meeting you at Aquaholics! Hope this helps.

Hasta,
Beth

QUESTION: 'Stretch what you use, and strengthen what you don't...' is this good advice for surfing conditioning?

Beth,
Great column! Almost all surfers seem to invariably suffer from similar ailments and injuries over the course of their careers, and it's great to see someone finally dishing out some practical advice to help prolong the surfing life.

I wanted to ask you if you could be more specific about your advice of "...you definitely want to focus on strengthening the opposing surfing muscle groups and stretch the muscles you use for paddling." I have read similar admonitions from chiropractors about "stretching what you use and strengthen what you don't." Could you give me some concrete examples? For instance, I would guess that paddling utilizes the latissimus dorsi, triceps, front deltoids, and perhaps to a lesser extent, the pectorals? So you would concentrate on stretching those muscles? And then following that train of thought, which muscles would you then work on strengthening? Lower back, bicep, side delts?

It seems like the traditional dry-land surfing workout of pushups and pullups are working the exact same muscles that you use in surfing - lats, front delts and pecs. So wouldn't that go against the prescription of "stretch what you use, strengthen what you don't"? I surf just about every day and also work out regularly, and I just want to make sure I'm not over-using or over-building certain muscles during my dryland training (I had some rotator cuff problems flare up over the summer). If you could possibly provide me with some clarification, it would be greatly appreciated! Thanks again for the wonderful column!

ANSWER:

Hey Ken,
I am stoked that you dig this column! Your questions are actually good ones because you often hear of what needs to be done, but not the specifics of how to do it. In an ideal surfing world, you have perfect paddling technique and never get crushed by inside sets or go over the falls. This perfect scenario would use all the upper body muscles for paddling and never pull or torque anything when getting ruined on the inside. Unfortunately, for most of us this world doesn't exist and imbalances are created.

Start with paddling...if your paddle stroke isn't perfect, you may be using more of your neck muscles and shoulders and not calling in your back or lats. If you are wicked tight, you may not be able to even come close to using certain back muscles while paddling because your shoulders role forward so much. If you get worked inside one day or get hammered by a close-out barrel and torque your neck or back, you may throw something out of whack which can mess up your perfect equilibrium.

So, what I am getting at is that there are a lot of variables in surfing and everyone's bodies are different. In most cases with surfers, I have noticed that we have incredibly tight pecs, biceps, and upper traps while our smaller deltoid, rhomboid, and levator scapulae tend to be weaker. I would suggest that you have a good body worker check out your body and find your tight areas and maybe do a few tests to figure out your weaknesses. Chances are, if you just use lighter weights and focus on the smaller muscle groups, you may find an increase in strength and balance.

Let me know if this clarifies things for you. I hope you got in the water a bit today (Sunday). Kind of fun and clean out at OB.

Hasta,
Beth

QUESTION: Which exercises- like breath holding- can I do to stay in shape since I can only surf on weekends?

Hey Beth,
I've been wondering about ways to improving my ability to hold my breath under water for longer periods at a time. I know that surfing everyday had increased my endurance and lengthened my ability to hold my breath, but I've just recently moved up to Northern California and I was living in Southern California for a while. Due to my new location, it will be tougher for me to surf everyday and I live over an hour away from the beach. Is there a workout I can do while I'm landlocked and surf on the weekends and not feel like I'm going to drown out there on a normal day? I've ridden waves up to 10 feet, but I was able to handle it because I have been surfing everyday. I'm afraid that I may lose that edge in my surfing.

Sincerely,
Noe

ANSWER:

Hey Noe,
In order to stay fit for surfing, I would first suggest swimming. It is the best for breath control and paddling fitness as it is as close to surfing as you can get. Joining a master's group at the local club is the best way to get a good, hard workout with out the boredom of swimming laps. Try busting out a few underwater swims for breath control. Other ways to stay fit for surfing is through weightlifting combined with a good cardio workout at least 3-4 days per week. Have someone at your gym set you up on a program geared for surfing.

As for breath control, my friend who is a Navy SEAL told me that they perform "sets" for holding their breath like you would for any other sport. For example, try to do 3 sets of 30 sec breath holds with 30 sec rest in between and then increase the length of time you hold your breath as you get stronger. The more fit your body is as a whole, the larger your lung capacity will be.

When doing breath holding related exercises, you should always have someone with you to make sure you don't pass out. It can get serious when you go for too long!

"Freedive!," which is a book by Terry Maas and David Sipperly (www.freedive.net) has a few good breath-holding exercises and it talks about the basic physiology of breath holding. The book is focused on skin diving, but the sections on breath holding and physiology can be applied to surfing.

Hope you got some waves this weekend. Hope you have fun this holiday season. Let me know if you have more questions!

Hasta,
Beth

QUESTION: How do I regain my flexibility which has been limited since I started lifting weights?

Beth:
I have been lifting weights for over a year now. I am enjoying the added mass and strength I have developed however I seem to be losing flexibility as well as range of motion. The stretching that I am doing doesn't seem to help so I was wondering if you had any insight or suggestions for me.

-Jeff M.

ANSWER:

Hey Jeff,
Of course I have some suggestions for you, I am a woman, aren't I?!? Weight lifting is an awesome way to stay strong and prevent injury if done properly. Did you have someone show you proper technique and put you on a good weight lifting program or are you making it up as you go along? Are you doing a variety of lifting or focusing mostly on chest and shoulders? Make sure in your routine that you are exercising all muscle groups. If you have been surfing a lot (or not due to the weather) you definitely want to focus on strengthening the opposing surfing muscle groups and to stretch the muscles you use for paddling.

I have finally committed myself to yoga in order to help me open up and stretch better. I have stretched in the past on my own and like you, I felt as though it wasn't doing enough. I highly suggest getting into yoga at least 2 times per week so you have a structured stretching class which forces you to hold the stretch for a long time. I have been doing some intro to Ashtanga classes at a great studio on Lombard called Greenpath Yoga (between Pierce and Steiner). The instructor is a surfer/triathlete-turned-yoga-guru so he totally understands our body type. I never could get into yoga but love this class. It is hard as hell and it really focuses on stretching, strengthening, breathing, and balance. Perfect for surfing!!

Hope this helps. Let me know if you need more info> Pray for good surf or tons of powder!

Hasta,
Beth

QUESTION: How do I get in better surf shape for a summer surf trip?

Beth, I am heading to the Mentawais August 12. Other than my regular handball, basketball, and surfing, I haven't done much to get in shape. Since I am spending so much money to get there and surf, naturally, I want to make the most of it. Currently, due to work and sloppy conditions in San Francisco during the summer months, I haven't been surfing nearly as much as I would like to before my trip.

Could you recommend some exercises or something that will help me get in shape for my trip so I can maximize my pleasures.

Thanks,
Jay G. - San Francisco (7/2/01)

ANSWER:

Hey Jay, How stoked are you for your trip?!? I hope you have been able to get out a little lately to enjoy this little south pulse we have been seeing.

As for training to get in shape for your trip, there are several things you can do. If you belong to a gym, you can do a bunch of lifting using a bit lighter weights and higher reps to mimic the paddle stroke. By doing lighter weights and higher reps, you won't build any unnecessary bulk while maintaining aerobic strength for paddling. You could also incorporate a few "burst" sets which mimic the paddle stroke when trying to get into the wave. It is not a bad idea to strengthen your lower body as well (quads, gluts, and hamstrings) to make for stronger turns and to prevent potential knee injury.

If you don't use the gym, you can still maintain upper body strength through pushups (6x15), dips (3x20), and pull-ups ( 3 sets of how many you can bust out). DO NOT forget sit-ups. I recommend doing at least 200 4x/week of super solid sit-ups. Try to isolate your lower abs as these are the muscles which help prevent injury of the low back and aid in over all strength while paddling and maneuvering on the wave.

I would try to either run or bike a bit to maintain cardiovascular fitness. As surfers, I don't think we realize how high our heart rate gets while surfing, especially at OB where we fight hellacious currents and gnarly paddle-outs. Not to mention that cardiovascular fitness helps with recovery and enduring 3 sessions per day. I would try to run at least 30 minutes and to ride for at least 1 hour, 3X's per week.

You could always get in a swimming pool and swim at least a mile. There are several public pools in SF. I hate to swim in a pool after years and years of being a competitive swimmer and prefer surfing for an hour regardless of conditions. I am not afraid to get in and surf wind swell just to stay surfing fit so that when the next swell hits, I am ready.

AND NEVER FORGET TO STRETCH. Your muscles can not be at their full potential when tight. A little stretching goes a long way. Let me know if you have more questions. Enjoy your trip and let me know how the waves were.

Hasta,
Beth
(7/3/01)