Tuesday, 9/20/11, 1:57pm PDT

Tuesday, 9/20/11, 1:57pm PDT

If you want to gauge the surf conditions, consider it this way: I woke up, fully aware that I had to do the surf report this morning, but chose to paddle out first. 3 hours later, I came back in and was completely oblivious to anything and everything, and therefore only remembered to do the report now, just shy of 2pm. Sorry about that folks. The stoke is a powerful thing, especially when it feels like fall is finally here. Fun head-high waves, not perfect, but not bad at all. Clear water (until the red tide arrives later today), lots of smiles and good vibes out there. Get some if you haven’t already.